In Europe, there’s not much in the way of physically delineated borders anymore. Usually just a sign. However, between the Netherlands and Belgium, there’s no need for one in order to know where you are, because it’s immediately obvious when the red-brick, neatly arranged houses disappear and the view becomes hilly, with a mish-mash of housing styles, including space around the houses. I noticed a hill in Wallonia somewhere with different-sized houses placed higgledy-piggledy all over it. And there are no roadworks or construction equipment every kilometre or so.
This was my first time in Wallonia, except I didn’t stay very long, as my destination was Luxembourg. I was aware that Luxembourg was a very small place from a school project I once did on population and density. Apart from that, I didn’t know much else. Given the size though, I figured 48 hours was enough time to explore the capital. Even Lonely Planet recommends a two-day itinerary. But I was wrong. There are a lot of steps to go up and down to get anywhere.
Luxembourg has a long history, dating back over a thousand years. However, the history of culture is relatively short. The Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art has a small section dedicated to Luxembourgish art, however it only dates back to the early-mid 1800s. Given the population is about half a million, it’s actually quite impressive.
What it lacks in culture though is made up for in practicality. The inhabitants have taken advantage of their geographical location, especially with their language policy. There are still the remains of fortresses and walls built to protect the city from numerous attacks, which are open for exploration.
The language situation in Luxembourg is curious. They have their own language, however they are also fluent in French and German, and most speak English as well. The difference to other “multilingual” countries is that in Luxembourg, it’s not split on geography — it’s situation-based. French is used in everyday activity, so decades-old schoolgirl French got another rare outing. Only the conductor on the train on the way home spoke to me in Luxembourgish.
In the free press on my first day there, there was a story about the strengthening of Luxembourgish. About 80% of residents use the language every day, and it is beginning to be used more in shops. It also noted that more than 50% of immigrants (about a third of the population, mostly from Portugal and Italy) are also learning and using Luxembourgish. But how on earth do they learn it when most activities are undertaken in French? The press is mostly in French and German — even the Zeitung vum Lëtzebuerger Vollek is in German, despite the Luxembourgish title and date header. There is Luxembourgish TV and radio, but I couldn’t pick it up in my hotel room.
That about a third of the population are immigrants is also impressive — the Luxembourgish strike me as very tolerant and welcoming. The May Day celebrations at Neumünster Cathedral were subtitled “fête du travail, des cultures et du dialogue” (holiday of work, cultures and dialogue) and included a multicultural food tent (à la the Night Market in Melbourne). There is also a service to help immigrants settle by providing information and interpreting services.
The Luxembourgish motto, “Mir wëlle bleiwe wat mir sinn” (We want to remain what we are), sums up the country quite well. It’s a country that’s very aware of itself and its place in Europe. Just when you thought the Netherlands was small, Luxembourg is even smaller, and with a lot more geographical character per square kilometre.
